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ELERON BMW 4 Series (F32/F33/F36) + M3 (F80) / M4 (F82/F83) Headlights Guide — ICON / CSL-GTS Tri-Color & Snake-Eye (E-Mark, Fitment, Pin Guide)

EleronDecember 4, 20255 min read73 views

A practical ELERON guide for BMW 4 Series F32/F33/F36 and BMW M3 F80 / M4 F82/F83 headlight upgrades: ICON/CSL-GTS tri-color DRL options and Snake-Eye arrow DRL. Includes E-mark context, exact pin/SA-code fitment, DRL switching steps, install notes, coding expectations, and troubleshooting tips.

Related Vehicles

BMW 4 Series
ELERON • BMW F3x / F8x Headlights Guide

This guide covers ELERON headlight upgrades for BMW 4 Series F32 (Coupe), F33 (Convertible), F36 (Gran Coupé) — plus BMW M3 F80 and BMW M4 F82/F83 (pre-LCI & LCI, depending on connector version). You’ll learn what to buy, how to pick the correct pin version, how the DRL modes work, and what to expect for install/coding.

If you only take one thing from this article: count the populated pins on your factory headlight connector first. It’s the fastest way to avoid ordering the wrong version.

Two headlight families: ICON/CSL-GTS (multiple DRL styles) and Snake-Eye (arrow DRL). Choose the correct pin version and you’re 90% there.

1) Overview: which ELERON headlight style is right?

A) ICON / CSL-GTS Tri-Color (most popular)

OEM-look, full-LED upgrade with clean light guides and strong bi-LED projector output. Run a subtle white-only OEM DRL for a factory finish — or choose CSL/GTS-inspired variants that add yellow, amber, or red options for a more aggressive signature when you want it.

  • Best for: OEM+ daily look in white, with optional motorsport DRL modes.
  • DRL variants: White-only • White+Yellow • White+Yellow+Amber • White+Yellow+Red.
  • Signals: orange/amber LED turn signals with crisp diffusion.

B) Snake-Eye “Arrow DRL”

Full-LED upgrade with a bold arrow DRL look. DRL is switchable between OEM-white (~6000K) and selective yellow (~3000K) using the high-beam stalk.

  • Best for: a standout DRL signature without going “full show build.”
  • DRL modes: White ↔ Yellow.
  • Output: bi-LED projectors with a sharp cutoff and strong night visibility.

Important: These headlights are sold in multiple connector versions. Your best move is to count the populated pins on your factory headlight plug and cross-check your VO/SA codes (examples below).

2) DRL modes & quick switching (high-beam stalk)

ICON / CSL-GTS DRL variants

  • White-only OEM version: fixed white DRL (no color change).
  • White + Yellow: flash for yellow (~3000K); flash for white (~6000K).
  • White + Yellow + Amber: flash white; yellow; amber.
  • White + Yellow + Red: flash red; yellow; white.

Tip: switch modes with the vehicle on and DRLs active. If the count doesn’t register, pause and repeat with steady timing.

Snake-Eye Arrow DRL

  • flash for yellow (~3000K)
  • flash for white (~6000K)

Best practice for daily driving: use the clean white DRL mode. Additional colors are a styling option often used for tuning builds and events — use as intended in line with local expectations.

3) Exact fitment & pin guide (6/8/9/10-pin)

Supported platforms: F32/F33/F36 plus F80/F82/F83. Order the connector version that matches your factory plug.

Factory lighting Typical years VO/SA codes (examples) What to order
LED (LCI) ~2014–2020 5A2 / 552 (most cars) 6-pin (if 6 pins populated)
Xenon (Pre-LCI, non-adaptive) ~2013–2016 522 (no 524) 8-pin
Adaptive Xenon (Pre-LCI) ~2013–2016 522 + 524 (AHL/AFS) 9-pin
Adaptive LED (rare wiring) early builds (varies) 552 with extra wiring 10-pin if your plug physically has 10 populated pins

The connector shell can look identical across versions. What matters is the number of populated pins. Always confirm by counting pins on the vehicle-side headlight plug.

Pin Photo Guide (Tap to Enlarge)

Fastest way to avoid ordering the wrong version.

Most common

6-pin (LED) — common on many LCI cars

Often 5A2 / 552 setups. Confirm by counting populated pins.

8-pin (Xenon non-adaptive)

Typical 522 Xenon without 524 (no AHL/AFS).

9-pin (Adaptive Xenon)

Typical 522 + 524 (AHL/AFS) setups.

10-pin (rare wiring)

Seen on some early 552 setups — verify twice before ordering.

Tip: if your car is modified or has an unusual retrofit history, rely on pin counting first and VO/SA codes second.

4) E-mark & “road-legal in white mode” (plain language)

ELERON headlight assemblies in this range are E-marked. For everyday driving, these kits are designed to run a clean white DRL mode. On multi-mode variants, additional DRL colors exist as a styling option — commonly used for tuning builds and events — so the best practice is simple: use white DRL mode for daily road operation and use as intended in line with local expectations.

Want deeper context on markings and inspections? See: E-mark & ECE lighting guide.

Look for the circled “E” marking and codes on the lens or housing.

5) Install notes, coding expectations, aiming

Install (high-level)

  1. Disconnect the battery. Protect painted edges before removing bumper/trim.
  2. Remove the old headlight assemblies and transfer any required clips/brackets.
  3. Install ELERON housings and connect the correct pin version (6/8/9/10).
  4. Function check: low/high beam, DRL, turn signals, and DRL mode switching.
  5. Aim the headlights after installation.

For aiming basics and a clean cutoff setup, use: How to aim headlights.

Coding expectations (what’s normal)

  • Pre-LCI Xenon → Full LED: some cars may need coding to prevent bulb checks or adapt lighting parameters.
  • Adaptive (AFS/AHL) cars: if you move to non-adaptive headlights, coding may be needed so the car doesn’t expect adaptive functions.
  • Rare 10-pin setups: confirm wiring/pin population carefully; plan on professional coding support if your car is uncommon.

If you see warnings, flicker, or fast indicator behavior, start here: CANBUS & LED error fixes.

6) Troubleshooting: warnings, flicker, hyper-flash

Dash warnings / bulb checks

  • Confirm the correct pin version (6/8/9/10).
  • Reseat connectors and check grounds (loose grounds cause intermittent behavior).
  • If needed, an installer can adjust bulb monitoring (cold/hot checks) for relevant channels.

DRL flicker / unstable DRL switching

  • Verify stable voltage (battery/charging health matters).
  • Some cars use PWM for DRL control; coding or an anti-flicker solution may help depending on setup.
  • Repeat the flash sequence with consistent timing.

Hyper-flash / indicator rate changes

If the indicator rate changes after installation, the car is usually detecting an unexpected electrical load. Start with connector checks, then review coding/monitoring settings. A general workflow is outlined here: CANBUS & hyper-flash fixes.

7) FAQs — ELERON BMW F3x / F8x headlights

Which version do I order: 6-pin, 8-pin, 9-pin, or 10-pin?
Count the populated pins on your factory headlight plug. VO/SA codes help (e.g., 522 often 8-pin; 522+524 often 9-pin; 5A2/552 usually 6-pin), but always confirm by pin count because connector housings can share the same shell.
How do I switch DRL colors?
Use the high-beam stalk flash sequence. ICON/CSL-GTS variants differ by DRL configuration: white-only (no change), white+yellow (4×/5×), white+yellow+amber (4×/5×/6×), white+yellow+red (3×/4×/5×). Snake-Eye is 4× for white and 5× for yellow.
Do I need coding?
Many installs are straightforward once the correct pin version is chosen, but some configurations (especially adaptive systems or unusual wiring) may require coding. Conversions from xenon to full LED can have different coding needs depending on equipment.
What’s the fastest way to get a clean beam pattern?
Aim the headlights after installation on level ground using a wall reference, then fine-tune on road. Follow our step-by-step guide: headlight aiming.

Need help confirming your connector?

Send a clear photo of your vehicle-side headlight plug (showing populated pins) and your build info — we’ll point you to the correct version. For deeper reading, use the guides below.

© Eleron Lights — Headlights built for clean output, tidy fitment, and real-world usability. More articles.

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